Oil based Stains and Finishes
Oil based Stains and Finishes
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There are a number of oils, waxes, shellacs, lacquer, varnish, (and a number of techniques including fuming, ebonizing, straining) which can be used to finish wood. Picking the right option for each specific situation allows for the best possible finish for each piece.The Difference a Film Makes
We had the standard options including water-based poly, shellac, lacquer, oil-based poly, and oil & wax. Although water-based poly won with 27% of the votes, there was a very vocal minority who wanted to see the oil & wax finish. So this resulted in a number of discussions about oil & wax and what kind of value this finish has to a woodworker. Personally, I am not a fan. An oil and wax finish is time-consuming to apply and offers very little in the way of protection. Yes its better than nothing, but just barely.
We are in an age when coloring woods simply means using one of the fine staining products that are readily available. Most of these come with instructions on usage and safety. But there is another way to color wood, one that mother nature uses, oxidization.
Traditionally used in France as a furniture polishing oil, 100% pure walnut oil is ideal for use on food-contact items, such as bowls and spoons, both as an original finish and for periodic touch-ups, as it provides a nontoxic finish that will resist water and alcohol. It has a fresh sweet smell and will not give any aftertaste to food, even when coming in contact with freshly wiped bowls or spoons.
Some law of woodworking undoubtedly dictates that the difficulty of a project and the amount of labor involved are directly proportional to the chances of messing up at the finishing stage. In retrospect, even the most complicated construction looks easy when you're faced with a bewildering selection of primers, stains, fillers, and finishes.
Mother Nature provides a variety of methods for protecting wood...beginning with the bark on a tree. Bark insulates the live wood from decay, disease, insects, people who like to carve their initials into them and other pests. Once the tree has been sawn into lumber and the lumber transformed into a piece of fine woodworking, there are a number of natural finishes that can be used to pick up the job of protection where the bark left off. Three of the most important finishes in this category are shellac, lacquer and varnish.
Is it normal for a mixture of poly and mineral spirits to become like a jelly if its sitting around for about a month or two? I made a half and mixture and when I went to use it the other day it was useless. I guess it would be smarter to make as much as needed rather than making a larger batch?
In the strict sense of the word, all wood finishes are synthetics, since they are somehow manufactured from raw materials. But this term is usually applied to a broad group of plastic finishes, including polyurethanes, poly-vinyls, acrylics and epoxies -- all of which are synthesized from petroleum products and space-age chemicals.
Getting a smooth, blemish-free finish with oil-based polyurethane is within your grasp if you follow the steps in this article. Oil-based polyurethane varnish brings out the wood’s natural beauty or wood grain. Our 4-step approach shows you how to apply the varnish successfully. A good-quality natural-bristle brush, a reasonably dust-free, well ventilated space and some patience are all you need.
Polyurethane is widely revered as one of the most durable yet easy-to-apply protective wood finishes. Polyurethanes are now available in both oil-based and water-based, and there are differences in the way in which both are applied and in durability. However, for many projects that will see a lot of wear and tear, few finishes are as appropriate as applying polyurethane for the final touch.