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From Inthewoodshop.com: Building an Armoire begins with an overview of the construction of the carcass. I The sides and upper side are through-dovetailed, and the lower two dividers are sliding dovetails. The remainder of the design will be attached to face frames. There will be a base and a top. In all, the Armoire will be about 51” tall and 36” wide, so there is room for a mirror on the wall above, and the top may be used as a dressing table.
I am building an armoire (small wardrobe) for the guest bedroom. Here I overview the construction of the carcass. I am thinking of calling it the "dovetailed cabinet". The sides and upper side are through-dovetailed, and the lower two dividers are sliding dovetails.
This post is a report on using a scratch stock in a new way (for me). The illustrations here form part of the face frame and door frames of a wardrobe I am building (see below). The carcass is dovetailed at the top side, and has two dividers connected with sliding dovetails. The top divider is solid as it forms the floor of the wardrobe, while the lower divider is a mortice-and-tenoned frame (to minimize movement) that will support a large drawer.
There ought to be a warning on the side of all rebate planes, especially skew rebate planes. The problem is that I prefer to push the fence against the edge of the board rather than hold the knob (which is safely out of harm's way). My fingers are close to the blade. When it comes to skew blades, I forget that they extend further back (than in line with where I think they end), and so I inevitably slice a finger tip! This is not confined to skew rebates, however. I do it on all rebate planes.
The foundation was laid when the stiles and rails were first grooved (with a plough plane) and then a bead was added with scratch stock.
Completing the raised panel doors began with making the frames, then raising panels to insert into the frames.