This is the first in a three-part story, each showing a different way of applying veneer to a substrate. When veneering, it is important to remember a couple of things. First, and foremost, veneer always needs to be counterbalanced, meaning, ALWAYS apply veneer to both sides of the substrate. When glue is applied between two surfaces, it shrinks, or contracts when it dries. This contraction pulls the surface in tension and cups it. To balance this out, the exact procedure should be done to both sides, balancing out the tension created by the glue drying. Taken from experience, I cannot emphasize this enough.
Gluing veneer to hardwood can actually be a good thing. As long as the hardwood has the proper moisture content, which is between 6 to 8 percent. Also, the smaller the piece of hardwood the better. Wood only expands and contracts, the width of your board. Also I like to veneer both sides, to balance the hardwood.
A while back, I published a tutorial on making a compass rose which was later published by Highland Woodworking in their newsletter. That compass rose was easy to do but required a special 22.5 degree template, which many people probably didn't have. After thinking about the problem, I came up with a slightly different compass rose which can be done with a standard 45 degree triangle.
Veneer is a thin sheet of ornamental wood, or occasionally other material used as a surface to give a handsome exterior finish to cabinet articles or other work, which are made with a basis of cheaper and it may be of stronger materials.
Why are bubbles appearing in veneer applied with PVA glue in a bag press.
Advice on setting up shop, for a woodworker considering breaking into veneered furniture.
Veneer applied over MDF is splitting and cracking - what could be the cause.
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